The power/amp chassis is finished and while waiting for the return of the re-chromed receiver chassis I completed the restoration of the crossover network as well.

NOW the chassis is back. Really nice job on the chrome. Taking pictures of it is like taking pictures of a mirror - so forgive the reflections.

In the pictures above and below I have begun to rebuild the caps and install the new resistor kit. So the picture below is of the reinstalled new parts.

The only problem I have encountered (again) is with the small number of mounting holes that are drilled and tapped. Most of the fasteners are nut and bolt or rivets. These are not a problem. But the tapped holes must be cleaned of the new chrome and retapped. Since I prefer not to use a drill on a chrome chassis to avoid cracking or flaking the new chrome, I adapted a rat-tail file to my drill. This solution is less likely to incur those problems.

Reinstalling the parts that are riveted to the chassis is a real challenge. It takes some practice to set the rivet without cracking the fiber parts.

You just have to ignore the reflections.

Ono of the most difficult tasks in this reconstruction is the remounting of the band switch and the tuning cap.

These assemblies have a network of heavy gauge wire grounds associated with the IF section. Apparently the builders did not feel comfortable relying on chassis grounds.

Did I miss any connections?    ;-)

Trimmers and oscillator coils installed.

Moving on to rebuilding the box caps. There are 4 of these in various sizes.

While I had the boxes apart, I decided to make some replacements incase I ever needed one (pictured above).

Above is a "dry electrolytic" with a bypass resistor. From the style of resistor and cap, it appears that these might have been a factory repair since they both seem to be a year or two newer than the chassis.

Now to address the three open Candohm resistors in the center of the chassis. These are all part no. 63-407 with a value of 10K ohms rather than the values on the schematic of 10K, 5K and 5K. Since the part(s) appear to be original, I am replacing them with 10K  wire wound resistors.

There are some concerns about mounting a replacement resistor to a failed Candohm as shown above. See the video below for a solution.

I would rewind these resistors but I have not found a source for resistance wire ( nichrome or other) with values greater than about 60 ohms per foot which would require a lot of wire to get to 10K ohms.

I hid the replacement resistor for the top (stacked) Candohm below so it was far less visible - as a replacement.

Testing and alignment will begin soon.

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